Great kitchen lighting design typically utilises a large amount of lighting (which means more than just installing a few extra ceiling roses). Kitchen lighting needs a variety of types of lighting for different areas and purposes. The absolutely worst way to illuminate a kitchen is using bright fluorescent ceiling strip lights. They’re certainly very bright – but also flat, cold and guaranteed to give you a headache into the bargain.

An obvious problem with central ceiling lights in a kitchen is that you inevitably create dark spots and are always standing in your own shadow. A common solution to this is to install banks of halogen down lights uniformly across the ceiling with additional lighting for worktops and hobs.

This solution works reasonably well, but does have its own downsides: halogen lamps operate at extremely high temperatures, don’t last very long, and are without rival as the most expensive means of lighting a kitchen. Some 90% of the cost of incandescent lighting (of which halogen is an extreme example) is the electricity they use.

This almost certainly accounts for the surge in popularity of low energy, low temperature LED kitchen lighting. With mains lighting (GU10 type fittings) it’s just a matter of replacing existing spotlights with their LED counterparts. For low voltage fittings (MR16 type), first replace regular 12v transformers with one (or possibly more, according to the number of lights) 12v constant voltage LED driver before switching to LED equivalent light bulbs.

The three main aspects to consider when installing LED spotlights are: luminosity (brightness); colour temperature (how cool/blue or warm/yellow); and beam angle. Try to match these as close as possible to the characteristics of the halogen lamps you might otherwise have considered using.

It has become the norm to measure brightness according to wattage, but the wattage ratings for LED light bulbs are approximately 10% compared to normal incandescent or halogen bulbs of the same brightness. Accordingly you should look to replace a 35w halogen lamp with 3-4w LED and a 50w with probably a 5w LED.

Color temperature describes how cool or warm a light appears. LED lights are available in a variety of white color temperatures (and also, colors) but since it has always been easier to manufacture blue LEDs, many cheap LEDs tend to have a cold/bluish tinge. Go for warm white (color temperatures below 3500K) for a reasonable approximation to the kind of white light normally associated with halogen lamps.

The narrower the beam angle (45 degrees for example) the tighter and more spot-like any light will appear, while 120 degrees gives an even spread of light and eliminates hot-spots and glare. Arguably the best LED spotlight presently on the market as a direct replacement for halogen spots is the Zenigata LED from Sharp.

One of the key factors to how any artificial light appears is not so much the light itself as the surface it shines on. To warm things up, point spot lighting at warmly colored areas (terracotta tiles, natural wood or simply a warmly painted wall). Alternatively, create dramatic effects by for example directing blue LEDs at fairly dark surfaces – blue LEDs reflected off blue, green, granite and steel can look stunning.

Mixing a variety of lights that offer different characteristics with a range of textures and colors makes it possible to obtain an extensive palette of effects for the various zones in your kitchen. LED strip lighting systems in particular offer all manner of options for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and pretty much anything else you could imagine. But at the end of the day though, once you’re done playing with all the new ideas on offer, try and settle on just a few designs that really appeal – it’s quite surprising how impressive even a bit of LED kitchen lighting appears.